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Newspaper Archive of
Shelton Mason County Journal
Shelton, Washington
September 3, 2020     Shelton Mason County Journal
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September 3, 2020
 
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Page A—38 - Shelton-Mason County Journal Thursday, Sept. 3, 2020 ON THE Towering cliffs, fringed white by cormorant droppings, join Cape Disappointment Lighthouse in overlooking Waikiki Beach, a popular swimming and surfing spot in Washington’s Cape Disappointment State Park. - Journal photo Mark Woytowich Cape Disappointment far from a letdown can’t reveal the entire backstory for why I chose Cape Disappointment for my first road trip in almost a year. Suffice to say it marked an anniversary of an earlier time when I actually sought out the place because I felt suicidal and, thanks to its catchy name, wanted to drop By MARK WOYTOWICH main drag, literally, where off the edge of the World here — which, geographically, it sort of is. p In fact, just last week (and emo- tional light years from feeling sui- cidal) I stood before a brass plaque at the Cape Disappointment Interpre- tive Center indicating that this place, indeed, holds the legendary honor of being the edge of the continent and the end of the New World, at least as far as Meriwether Lewis and William Clark were concerned, arriving by land here with their Corps of Discov- ery Expedition just in time for winter, 1805. ‘ Of course Cape Flattery, in north- ern Washington, juts farther west into the Pacific Ocean. vHowever, Cape Disappointment, with its two lighthouses and dark, turgid Columbia River fanning miles Wide and dangerous as ever. It has claimed more than 600 ships in what sailors still call “the Graveyard of the PacificOcean.” This Cape has a name with a reputation to match. OPEN FOR BUSINESS Cape Disappointment, despiteits strong, suggestive name and mega popularity as a Washington state park and tourist destination, isn’t the kind of place many local businesses fashion their own names after. For instance, you will not find a Cape Dis- appointment Wedding Chapel here, nor a Cape Disappointment Marriage Counselor, driving school or even a hospital or dental clinic trading on its name. Up the road barely 3 miles, how- ever, you will find the crazy, camival- like, tourist—trap town known as Long Beach, with its T- shirt shops, dozens of restau- rants, taverns and doughnut shops, kite, museum, noisy go- kart track, heavily lacquered, life-sized wooden Bigfoot carvings ($1,500 each), putt- putt golf course and mini merry-go-round, all on the cars crawl through town from sunup till sundown. Here crosswalks are crowded with tourists, moms holding kids’ hands while their kids hold onto snow cones or helium balloons, teenagers laugh- ing and rushing to join their friends, tattooed bartenders and white- aproned cooks catching a mask-off break in their own beer gardens, old, tired grandmas sitting on benches ’with cigarettes slanting from their lips, empty-eyed and sighing as they watch over toddlers at the many trite, kitschy pocket parks filled with oddball art such as ceramic turtles crawling over metallic stools beside a cement pond with its fountain pump no longer pumping. Long Beach is Hoodsport on ste- roids. One major difference, however: Lo- cal authorities know how to handle trash and they know how to handle crowds. They’re not closing the beach- es or lighthouses down. SETTLING IN We decide to stay two nights at a sad, frumpy block of little buildings called the Seaview Motel &' Cottages. We overpay but are happy to know where we are sleeping that first night. “We” are myself and Hood Canal photographer George Stenberg, who is five weeks from knee replacement ‘ surgery and has been convinced ‘by me to take his new knee out for a trial spin. I even bought him his walker — $5 at Nifty Thrifty — which he only used for a few days. In exchange for his nights of what my wife calls the How]- watch ships from allover the world wrestle their way over the Columbia professional “coverage” of my Cape Disappointment reunion, I premise togaidehim toxzsome mpsshelfljght- ...bar as they chug up the mightyaiuan... house photos, provided the weather cooperates. MISERY ATTRACTS COMPANY Well, the weather was fine and George did great, by the way. In ad- dition to the three-hour drive, he walked over a mile each day. He also made it through two consecutive Despite the trick knee, George nearly jumped for joy when we found the beachbelow fabled Cape Disap- pointment Lighthouse. /_¢ , “I’ve seen other photos taken here,” he said. “This is the pla ‘ "hereiyou can get shots of reaflffilgaves.” We took a break upon our dis— covery, sitting at a picnic table and chatting about how we’d get into posi- ing Shore Storm —— thus the more expensive cabin with two bedrooms separated by a sliding, buffering door. George would have paid extra for a sound proof booth. tion once the sun got lower toward evening. FIRST-CLASS PARK Nearby, a man our age was root- For the record, Cape Disappoint— ing in the back of his van, opening ment has to be one of the most funded and eating from a tin of sardines. He and most developed state parks ' glided over and introduced himself as Washington has. To the best of my David, from Ohio, now six weeks into knowledge, no other state park has a solo road trip, ostensibly to visit his its lakeside campsites, hot showers, daughter in San Francisco. heated change rooms, bait and snack A few minutes into talking, how- store, family yurts and sheer number ever, he admits to failing to see his of camping options, and a dreamy, child, spurned somewhat by messy soft-sand sheltered beach below tow- family politics involving a meddling ering cliffs and an historic lighthouse, ex-wife. making it a living postcard in addition “I came all this way to see her,” he to a top surfing draw. said, “and she doesn’t get how much Am I missing something? Yes, the she means to me. I tell you it nearly Discovery Trail, which meanders killed me. I was so disappointed, and northward, far past the car-laden you aren’t going to believe this, but I stretch of surf bordering Long Beach looked at the map that night and saw — anyway, within park boundar- ‘Cape‘ Disapp‘ointment’ up the coast, ies, the Discovery Trail is a highly» and something about the name and groomed and banked ribbon of Ameri- how I felt, I just knew I needed to cans with Disabilities Act asphalt that come here.” winds among hills, dunes and craggy OK, Cape Disappointment Suicide bays, providing a high level of access Hotline, now there’s a name that ‘ to beach trailheads, scenic overlooks, sticks. as well as the North Head Lighthouse. More about this adventure in my Where not paved and bicycle- \ next column. friendly, the park offers other trails that follow jagged cliff tops, past weird, warped trees that have with- stood winds up to 150 mph. You also have a World War II com- ponent to the park, with old military lookouts and bunkers similar to those at Fort Worden State Park. From some of these structures you can I Mark Woytowich‘is a writer, pho- tographer, video producer and author ' of “Where Waterfalls and Wild Things Are.” He lives in Potlatch with his “0n the Trail” column appearing every oth- er week in the Journal. Reach him at his website, www.wherewaterfallsare. com, or by email at eyefive@hctc.com.